🏠 Husbandry Essentials
Temperature and Heating Requirements
Sulcata tortoises are ectothermic (cold-blooded) animals and rely on external heat to stay healthy and properly digest food. Providing the correct temperature gradient is one of the most critical aspects of Sulcata husbandry.
Temperature Zones
Your enclosure should provide multiple temperature zones so your tortoise can regulate its body temperature:
Hot Basking Spot (35-40°C / 95-104°F)
- Primary heat source for warming up
- Should be accessible but not mandatory
- Use heat mats (like Stanfield) rather than heat lamps
Ambient Daytime (30-36°C / 85-97°F)
- General living area temperature
- Provides comfortable activity zones
- Should have gradual transition to cooler areas
Cool Zone (28-30°C / 82-86°F)
- Allow your tortoise to cool down when needed
- Provides escape from heat
- Often includes shaded areas
Night Temperature (25°C+ / 77°F+)
- Critical minimum - never let temperature drop below 25°C
- Prolonged cold exposure causes digestive problems
- Can lead to respiratory infections
If your tortoise is exposed to temperatures below 25°C for extended periods, it cannot properly digest food. This leads to food rotting in the stomach, causing serious illness and potentially death.
Heat Sources
Recommended: Heat Mats
- Stanfield heat mats are industry standard for Sulcata owners
- Provide consistent, even heat from below
- Should warm from both above and below for best results
- Easier to control than bulbs
Not Recommended: Heat Bulbs (as primary source)
- Dry out the shell, leading to pyramiding
- Can cause burns if tortoise gets too close
- Create harsh, uneven heating
- Use only as supplemental heat if needed
Use multiple thermometers throughout your enclosure to track temperature zones. Consider a thermometer with min/max recording to catch overnight drops.
Seasonal Considerations
- Winter: Increase monitoring and potentially add supplemental heat
- Summer: Ensure cool zones are available and watch for overheating
- Indoor housing: Climate control is essential year-round
- Outdoor housing: Heated shelters are mandatory in most climates
Common Mistakes
- Relying only on ambient room temperature - Not enough heat for proper digestion
- No temperature gradient - Tortoise cannot self-regulate
- Heat bulbs as primary source - Causes shell damage over time
- Not monitoring night temperatures - Cold nights are dangerous
- Assuming warmer is always better - Overheating is also harmful
Last verified: December 2024
Heating
- Sulcata tortoises are ectothermic (cold-blooded) and rely on external heat.
- Daytime temperatures should range between 30–36°C (85–97°F) with a hot basking area.
- Nighttime temperatures should not drop below 25°C (77°F).
- Always provide temperature gradients: shade, moderate warmth, and a direct basking spot.
- Prefer heat mats (e.g., Stanfield) as primary heat source; avoid using bulbs as heat source.
- Adjust and monitor output regularly to prevent overheating.
Lighting
- UV bulbs should primarily provide UVA and UVB for shell and bone health.
- Do not use UV bulbs as primary heat source — this dries the shell and risks burns.
- Replace UVB bulbs every 6 months; visible light remains, but UVB output declines.
- Avoid red light bulbs; tortoises may mistake objects for food.
- Avoid coil-style UVB bulbs due to risk of eye irritation and injury.
Barrier Requirements
- Barriers should be tall enough to prevent escape and extend below ground to block burrowing.
- Round corners so tortoises follow the perimeter instead of getting stuck.
- Use strong, weather-resistant materials suitable for large, powerful tortoises.
- Surfaces should be soft and smooth enough to avoid shell damage.
- Recommended: Plastic rice field paddy boards (Japanese: あぜ板, “aze-ita”). Durable, flexible, and the wave-like profile reduces shell contact and wear.
- Wood is a common alternative and easy to source, but it will decay over time and require periodic replacement.
Substrate
- Avoid hard, rough materials like pebbles, gravel, or concrete — they damage the shell.
- Choose a substrate that drains easily and is non-toxic and non-irritating.
- Avoid anything that can cause harm or blockages if ingested.
- Never use walnut shell substrate; ingestion can cause intestinal blockages.
- Avoid cedar mulch: aromatic oils release toxic fumes and may cause respiratory irritation; ingestion risks impaction.
🏕️ Enclosures
Outdoor Enclosures
- Provide a heated, wind-protected shelter to help your tortoise maintain healthy body temperature during cool weather and overnight.
- Ensure strong predator protection. If something can happen, it eventually will.
- Incorporate shade, points of interest, hiding spots, and escape areas such as tree trunks, large rocks, bushes, or trees.
- Add variation to ground level — small raised hills or shallow valleys encourage exercise.
- Plant a variety of edible vegetation to encourage natural grazing behavior.
Indoor Enclosures
- Provide adequate space — enclosure should be large enough for natural movement, exploration, and exercise.
- Include a secure hiding spot to give your tortoise a sense of safety and reduce stress.
- Maintain adequate humidity levels, especially for younger or ill tortoises, and monitor regularly.
🛁 Soaking
- Regularly soak your tortoise in warm water for about 20–30 minutes.
- Ensure that the water is not too hot or too cold.
- Maintain warm water throughout the soak — it cools quickly.
- Place the tortoise in an empty tub first, then gradually add water.
- Fill water only up to the top edge of the plastron to prevent drowning risk.
- Never leave your tortoise unattended in the water.
Soaking in warm water can help ease constipation and often encourages natural bowel movements.
📓 Keeping a Care Diary
Keeping a detailed daily diary helps you:
- Identify Problems Early: Spot health changes before they become serious.
- Understand Mistakes: Trace back diet, enclosure, or care adjustments that may have caused an issue.
- Support Your Vet: A detailed log is invaluable for veterinarians to make accurate diagnoses.
- Ensure Consistency: Meet your tortoise's needs without forgetting key steps.
What to Record
- Feeding: Type of food, amount, and feeding times.
- Growth: Shell measurements, size, and weight.
- Behavior: Any unusual actions, changes in activity, or appetite.
- Care Actions: Soaking times, cleaning, enclosure maintenance.
- Environment: Temperature and humidity readings for both day and night.
- Medical: Any treatments, vet visits, and health observations.
💰 Cost of Ownership
- Buying a Sulcata tortoise is often the cheapest part.
- Because Sulcatas can live for many decades, grow very large, and need enough space, they require lifelong financial commitment.
- In colder climates, costs can be especially high due to the need for suitable shelter, heating, and lighting.
- Like all animals, Sulcatas can become sick. Since they are not typical "pets", veterinary care can be significantly more costly than for more common pets.
Before acquiring a Sulcata, carefully consider whether you can provide for their needs for potentially 50+ years.